"Buenas dias!" a woman's voice startled me. It was 6:30 AM and I was in the middle of enjoying my cup of coffee and spacing out. Besides, I thought this place was deserted.

"Buenas dias" I replied reflexively turning around to see a petite old women dressed as a cowboy. She looked to be a at least 150 with white hair and skin the color of leather. From her dusty boots to the layers of clothing that showed years of patches and repairs, this woman looked the part.

"Bienvenido" (Welcome) the woman said brightly. It was the last thing I understood. She cheerfully launched into telling me about the park and where things were. It was like being suppressed by machine gun fire. Her Spanish gushed out in a rapid torrent of information. I told her that my Spanish was not so good and to please speak slower. Nope. She either didn't understand me or she just didn't have time for this stupid gringo. She when right on overwhelming me with information. I had no idea how to respond. I just smiled and nodded.

Eventually she extended a registration book out to me with a hand clad in a well-worn roper glove. I took the book and on the lined pages I could see that other guests had filled in their pertinent travel information and signed their names. The woman handed me a pen.

After signing the woman claimed the book and her pen and produced a handful of tourist brochures including a map of the area. "Muchas grasias" I said. She promptly replied "Abrí los baños" (I opened the bathrooms). She pointed to a small building about 100 meters away. With that she turned and marched off, soon disappearing beyond the said bathrooms.

I went back to my coffee and had a chuckle.

The ride today was wide open range. A whole lot of sagebrush and jackrabbits and not much else. I've discovered that the trick to riding in this part of Argentina is to start early and end before 3:00. I didn't get in until close to 5:00 and the last two hours became windy and unpleasantly hot.

I ended my day in San Martin de Los Andes which is a touristy town right on the edge of the National Park. It sits on a beautiful lake surrounded by forest. Finally some forest!!!