Even after all of that whining yesterday I still rode to Cusco today. It probably had more to do with a persistent stubbornness in my personality than any particular fortitude. Besides, I had already booked a hotel. I couldn't let that go to waste.
The truth of the matter is that I only intended to ride as far as Abancay today but I arrived there much earlier than I expected. It was only 1:00. I looked at my GPS and saw that Cusco was only another 114 miles. I can do that, I thought. About 15 minutes later it started raining.
Leaving Puquio the road improved considerably. I even saw a guard rail! Climbing up a staircase of switch backs I found myself on a broad plateau. In the thin air of 15,000ft the sky was sapphire and there were several lakes. The road was straight and I could ride pretty fast though I had to remember to use a pressure breath as my head kept getting buzzy. I took over an hour to cross the plateau before descending into a river valley. At one point I saw a half dozen llamas along the road. I screeched to a halt to take thier picture thinking I was capturing some rare wildlife. About five miles later there were hundreds of them grazing along the sprawling alpine meadows.
The run down the river valley was magnificent. It was like someone cracked the mountain range just so this little river could flow through. I didn't have to defend any switchbacks as the river gently dropped down into its canyon. I was treated to a long stretch of gentle sweeping curves with soaring cliffs rising up on both sides. This river led all the way to Abancay which is why I arrived so early.
Having decided to make a run for Cusco, I calculated that if everything went okay I would arrive about 5:30... just before sunset at a little after 6PM. This section was far more difficult than my morning. The road was more technical with tighter turns and sharp hairpins. It was also steeper and more heavily trafficked. I assumed attack mode, passing many trucks as they struggled up the pass. Soon it started raining. I don't mind riding in the rain but it does add to the pucker factor as visibly and traction are diminished. Crossing the first big pass the view broadened to some really rugged mountains. I knew it was going to be a full on battle to the finish. The road was a relentless series of climbs through the clouds followed by winding descents. I was too hot one minutes and chilly the next as the temperature fluctuated between 48º and 88º.
Just as predicted I arrived in Cusco just after 5PM. Finding my way into the historic center had me riding down the steepest roads I have EVER encountered. Just to make it that much more fun they were paved with rounded cobblestones. As the bike chattered down the vertical slope, I wasn't completely convinced I would be able to stop on this surface. Evidently I could.
It was an epic day of so many different environments. The Andes don't disappoint in their diverse beauty and massive scale. I'm looking forward to two glorious days off the bike. Tomorrow is my day to explore Cusco... and relax. Tuesday I'm taking the train to Machu Pichu.